The Very Best Shows From Paris Fashion Week

2024-10-03
The Very Best Shows From Paris Fashion Week

Runway Revelations: A Captivating Exploration of the Spring/Summer 2025 Collections

The fashion world eagerly awaits the unveiling of the latest collections, each season offering a glimpse into the creative visions of the industry's most renowned designers. From the iconic Yves Saint Laurent to the avant-garde Comme des Garçons, the Spring/Summer 2025 showcases a tapestry of sartorial narratives that captivate and inspire. Join us as we delve into the heart of these remarkable presentations, uncovering the stories, the innovations, and the transformative power of fashion.

Elevating the Everyday: A Masterclass in Quiet Luxury

Yves Saint Laurent: Honoring the Legacy

In a tribute to the late Yves Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello's Spring/Summer 2025 collection for the iconic French fashion house seamlessly blends the founder's sartorial signatures with a modern sensibility. Slouched blazers, wide-legged trousers, and oversized leather aviator jackets evoke the effortless elegance that defined the Yves Saint Laurent woman. Vaccarello's discerning eye for color shines through in the brilliant tiered chiffon skirts, blouses, and brocade jackets, drawing inspiration from the brand's muse, Loulou de Falaise.

The Row: Embracing Rawness and Refinement

The undisputed queens of quiet luxury, The Row, have taken a refreshing turn for Spring/Summer 2025. Abandoning their polished composure, the collection exudes a raw, unkempt everydayness. From T-shirts layered over slouched trousers to a grey cocktail dress that appears to be perfectly pinned around the body, the designers have masterfully created a sense of ease and effortlessness. Yet, the underlying mastery of textile and cut is evident, showcasing the brand's unwavering commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

Loewe: Subverting Classicism with Flightiness

Johnathan Anderson's 10th-anniversary collection for Loewe takes flight from convention, subverting classicism, trompe l'oeil, and couture craftsmanship. The collection features a delightful blend of unexpected elements, from 'museum merch' T-shirts made from feathers to floral hoop dresses without corsetry and flipped-hem leather jackets. Paired with sneakers and flats, the overall aesthetic conveys a wonderful ease and a certain flightiness, as Anderson continues to push the boundaries of the Loewe brand.

Comme des Garçons: Tempering Anger with Hope

Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons collection for Spring/Summer 2025 reflects a shift in perspective. After last season's forthright anger, the designer now offers a more tempered approach, infusing the collection with "air and transparency" in the hopes of cultivating possibility amidst the uncertainty of the world. From the opening structured white ensembles to the seemingly blood-splattered textiles and furious red jacquards, Kawakubo masterfully balances the dark and the light, ultimately cutting any sense of doom with palpable possibility.

Miu Miu: Exploring Truth and Individuality

The Miu Miu girl is the unrefuted "it" girl of the moment, but she never rests on her laurels. For Spring/Summer 2025, the collection tackles the question of "truth and its representation." Staged in a makeshift print press, the show is an amalgamation of house favorites – layered briefs, snug cardigans, school-boy blazers – with new smocks, bloomers, and floral embroidered skirts. As Lotta Volkova's unique styling suggests, the truth perhaps lies in individuality, a rare commodity in our algorithm-fed world.

Kiko Kostadinov: Exploring Identity Through Liminal Spaces

As Australians living abroad, Laura and Deanna Fanning of Kiko Kostadinov are well-acquainted with the existential questions that arise during long-haul travel. For Spring/Summer 2025, the designers have developed four fictional characters as vehicles to explore the nuances of identity, outfitting each with looks showcasing their unparalleled hand for cut and appetite for color.

Valentino: Embracing Maximalism with a Modern Twist

The most anticipated debut of the season, Alessandro Michele's first collection for Valentino lives up to the sky-high expectations. Embracing the house's history of ruffles, bows, and extravagant trimmings, Michele's maximalist approach offers a refreshing contrast to the current trend of quiet luxury. The collection reads as a first survey of the archives, with doll references from the 60s, polka dots from the 70s, and tiers and ruffles from the 80s, all given a modern, fluid twist. In a time when restraint reigns supreme, it's invigorating to see designers push the boundaries of garment and accessory.

Balenciaga: Challenging the Status Quo

Demna's Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Balenciaga is anything but child's play. Staged on a larger-than-life dining table, a nod to his childhood fashion shows with cardboard cut-outs in his grandmother's kitchen, the collection is the designer's sexiest to date. Lingerie-clad models in skin-toned bodysuits, dresses with exposed bums, and Demna's signature broad-shouldered coats and low-slung denim all come together to challenge the status quo. As the designer attests, "Fashion needs to get messed up ... it needs not to be based on fear."

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